El Artesano Restaurant on sits at the heart of what was once a bustling Cuban-American community in Union City, N.J. Many Cuban-Americans have moved out to the surrounding suburbs, but they still crowd into El Artesano on the weekends, for authentic Cuban eats and treats. Recent conversation centers on the changes taking place on the island, which have stirred new hope among exiles.

By Ivan Dominguez and Karen Zraick