Human Rights Reporting

Spring 2003 Student Work

© 2003 by Piya Kocher

The Long Journey to Peace: A true fairy tale of love in the time of Rwanda's genocide - complete with magic beans

By Piya Kochhar

It is a Sunday afternoon. After months of snow, the sun has finally come out. Pierre and Martha Musibymana leave their door open and their four children-Victor, Lillian, Anna and Peace-tumble in and out of the house playing with a blue jump rope. The Musibymanas live among a row of compact town houses in Trenton, New Jersey. As their children play, and their neighbors wave hello, the Musibymanas sit on a worn yellow sofa and tell the story of the journey they took to arrive at this moment.

It is a love story. It begins in Rwanda.

In 1986, Martha was 16 years old and Pierre was 18. She was a Hutu, with a beautiful round face and shining black skin. He was considered a Tutsi, with sharp features and sparkling golden-brown eyes. They both attended the John Wesley Institute, a 14-year-long comprehensive education program for superior students.

It was here, after school, that Pierre handed Martha a letter. In it, he asked her permission to love her. He said he would like to marry her. The two had known each other since they were 12, each aware of the other vaguely as they played in school or in their small town. "There is no way to say how you fall in love," says Pierre. "You just find yourself in love with each other." Martha nods her head, "In my country, love stories begin in the middle. There is no beginning or ending." She pauses for a moment and smiles; "I kept that letter for a long time, like you keep a penny."

That love letter, like much of their life from these early years, was lost in the hard times to follow. Almost overnight, Pierre and Martha saw their country tumble into chaos. Till this day they talk about the political upheaval with bewilderment, as though they are still unsure how all this happened.

But in 1986 Pierre and Martha had no idea of what was to come. They both were finishing their education and their courtship consisted of writing long letters to each other. Finally, at the age of 24 and 26, the two married on June 24, 1993. Soon after, Rwanda changed almost overnight.

Suddenly Pierre found himself an enemy in his own country. He had to hide to save his life; running away from the town he had grown up in, leaving behind the woman he loved. "The Hutus and Tutsis loved each other; we went to the same schools, our parents were friends. Then suddenly because the politicians declared it, there was hatred. We were enemies. It is hard to explain this to those who didn't live it. The hatred was created. It was not something that existed. We lived together in peace for 30 years … then how is it that suddenly over one night because somebody declared it, everybody had to die?" The year was 1994; the year that a growing division between Hutus and Tutsis reached its violent climax.

Under President Juvenal Habyarimana, the Rwandan government began to systematically exploit divisions between Hutus and Tutsis as a way for the Rwandan leader to gain political strength. The president, a Hutu, began his hatred campaign in 1990, and created a youth army called the Interahamwe in 1992. A report by Human Rights Watch states, "But shattering bonds between Hutus and Tutsis was not easy. For centuries they had shared a single language, a common history, the same ideas and cultural practices. They lived next to one another, attended the same schools and churches, worked in the same offices, and drank in the same bars …"

But by systematically launching attacks and spreading hate-inducing propaganda, Habyarimana was able to significantly widen the divisions between Hutu and Tutsi. All of this climaxed on April 6, 1994, when Habyarimana's plane was shot down above Kigali airport and he was killed. Within hours a campaign of violence had spread from the city throughout the country. Even though it was never determined who shot down Habyarimana's plane, Hutu leaders were determined to slaughter massive numbers of Tutsi and Hutus opposed to Habyarimana's regime. In total, an estimated 800,000 Tutsis and moderate Hutus were killed in the three-month-long genocide, and even more Rwandans were killed in the violence that continued for months afterwards. Despite the upheaval, the U.N. Security Council did not order its peacekeepers to try and stop the violence.

Martha remembers this time. The couple had a 1-year-old son, Victor, and she was pregnant with their second child, Lillian. She remembers the terror she'd feel at night. "I was young. We had just got married. And now, suddenly, I did not know where my husband was, whether he was alive. I thought about my children, about our future. I was terrified."

Martha spent her days looking for her husband, who had fled to the forests and swamps for safety. She would ask travelers if they'd heard of Pierre, she would pray, she would wander to nearby townships. Slowly her own town became deserted as people fled for safety. Finally, Martha decided to leave her family and go look for Pierre.

She remembers taking a few clothes, picking up her son and her newly born daughter, and at the last moment grabbing a handful of beans. "They have no name," says Martha of the beans. "They were yellow, white, and red. I wanted to take them with me so I would always have something that was mine, something from my country. Understand, at that moment I did not know what the future was. I was leaving behind my home."

Martha found herself at the Rwandan border. Here, thousands of Rwandans had gathered to seek refuge in nearby countries. There were ships sailing to Zambia, and people were waiting to sneak on board. It was here, among the crowd, that she saw Pierre after nearly a year of not knowing whether he was alive or dead. She walked up to him and handed him the beans. He put them in his pocket. It was July 1995.

The couple did not sail that day. Instead, they received shelter with a Congolese family that lived near the border. "We will never forget their kindness," says Pierre.

The couple stayed with the family for a month. Then one night they got a chance to be smuggled aboard a ship sailing to Zambia, through connections the Congolese family had. Neither Pierre nor Martha had tickets. Thousands of people were on board, sitting in rows of plastic seats. "We had barely any money," says Martha. "We were carrying only one suitcase," recalls Pierre.

The journey was for two days and two nights. The couple had no idea what they would do once they reached Zambia. Neither had visas, and they knew that if the immigration officers caught them they would be sent back to Rwanda. And in Rwanda, both knew that they could not remain together under current political circumstances. "I had my head in my hand, rubbing and rubbing trying to think of a solution. We were expecting the worst at the end of this journey," Pierre said.

As the ship got nearer to Zambia, and stories of families detained, imprisoned or separated at the immigration check-post surfaced, Pierre and Martha decided they had taken a foolish risk getting on the ship. They decided to sail back to Rwanda and try escaping some other time when they had the right papers. Pierre paid most of the little money the couple had, about $20, to a man on a canoe. The canoe would take the couple back to Rwanda, before the ship docked in Zambia.

"We were so confused," remembers Martha. "We just wanted our family to remain together. At that time so many families were separated, lost to each other. All we had was this family, and we didn't want to lose it."

In the confusion of getting onto the canoe, their son, Victor got left behind on the ship. "That was the worst moment," recalls Pierre. Martha adds, "I looked up and saw Victor on the railing, and the ship was sailing away, he was becoming smaller and smaller." The couple didn't know what to do, so they bent down and began to pray. As luck would have it the big ship suddenly stopped moving forward. Some engine difficulty kept it moored for about 30 minutes. Martha and Pierre told the canoe sailor to take them back to the ship, and paid him the last of their money. "Our journey has been filled with little miracles," says Pierre. "There are so many moments we were saved and I don't know how. I really don't know how."

In a daze the couple were carried back up to the ship and reunited with their son. But now they faced the problem of the immigration port in Zambia. What were they to do? "And this was the second miracle of our journey," says Pierre with a chuckle. Martha nods her head in wonder at his words. Two Tanzanian men, whose names Pierre and Martha never found out, came up to the couple. The men spoke Swahili, and Pierre and Martha spoke broken English. Through sign language and bits of English they managed to communicate with each other. The Tanzanian men told Pierre and Martha not to worry. They would help the couple. They had seen what the couple had gone through to reunite with their son, and they said they would make sure the family would remain united.

The two men disappeared into the ship and when they returned they handed Martha and Pierre tickets. They took no money from the couple. When the ship arrived in Zambia they took the couple's suitcase and motioned for them to follow. "We had no idea what was happening, or what would happen," says Pierre. "But we had no other alternative but to trust these men. To trust they would keep us together."

That trust was not misplaced. The Tanzanian men motioned for Pierre and Martha to stand aside as they went through the immigration check post. Pierre and Martha watched from afar while Zambian police officers searched the suitcases and spoke with the two men. When the police officers found Rwandan papers in the suitcases they became suspicious and asked the Tanzanian men why they had them. "I think the men told the police-officers that by mistake they had picked up the wrong suitcases in the ship," guesses Pierre. Martha adds, "The policemen started beating up the two men and we were watching on the side not knowing what would happen."

What happened next has remained a mystery to both Pierre and Martha ever since. Soon after being beaten by the police, the two men motioned to Pierre and Martha and the two followed. "We were amazed," recalls Pierre. "We just walked right through the immigration post and no one stopped us." Martha tries to make sense of the moment in hindsight: "I think those two men would often sail between Rwanda and Zambia. I think they knew the immigration post and officers well. Maybe that's how they knew how to save our family." She pauses for a moment and says softly, "I can never forget them. I got back my child, my son … my family."

Because Pierre and Martha had no money left, they gave the two men their suitcase as thanks. And the two Tanzanian men disappeared into the crowd. But now the couple faced another challenge. The nearest town was Lusaka, but that involved a day and night long bus journey. But neither Pierre nor Martha had any money. It was at that moment that the couple chanced upon another miracle, as they call it. Pierre recognized an old friend, Jean Paul, passing by. Pierre's friend had not been as lucky as the couple. While his wife had managed to escape the immigration post to Lusaka, he had been detained and was waiting to be deported to Rwanda. When he heard Pierre and Martha's story he used his own money to buy them tickets for the bus. "I tried to find Jean Paul after that, but never knew what became of him," says Pierre. Martha adds, "So many people were lost. We lost so many friends and family."

Pierre and Martha stayed at Lusaka for one month. This was the hardest part of their journey, both say. Here they had no money, they did not speak the language, and they could find barely any work. So they soon moved to a United Nations-run refugee camp in the Zambian bush.

"We were the first Rwandan couple to arrive at the camp," says Pierre. At that point the camp consisted of a number of huts. Most of the refugees there were Angolans, who had been kicked out of Angola by a Rwandan political party. "So they hated us, especially me because I was a Rwandan man," says Pierre.

Soon the camp filled up with even more Rwandans, but they separated into groups of Hutus and Tutsis. For the first time in their life, Pierre and Martha experienced discrimination because of their mixed-tribe marriage. "We would receive hate letters," says Pierre. "Some people in the camp would try to break up our marriage," says Martha.

Pierre realized a lot of this hate and conflict was based on hunger and deprivation. "When people are in need, conflict arises," says Pierre. At the camp, the growing number of refugees were fighting over limited resources. He got an idea. What if the camp produced its own rations?

Pierre and Martha began the agricultural program at the camp, a program that would grow until it sustained and fed all the refugees in the camp and even began producing for the nearby townships of Lusaka. When Pierre and Martha arrived at the camp near the end of 1995, there were 30,000 refugees and the camp was almost entirely dependent on U.N. rations. By the time the couple left in 2000, the camp had grown to 50,000 refugees … but it was 40 percent self-sufficient and that has improved over the years. The entire agricultural program that would go on to transform this camp began with a handful of Rwandan beans.

"They were the climber beans," says Pierre. "The type that grow up to the sky." Martha was pregnant with Anna by this time. But she would go out to their small patch of land and sow the beans. She remembers the first crop. "I was so happy," says Martha. "I just stood and saw the small green plants growing up and up and up." From their first crop, Martha cooked a few of the beans and saved another handful for the second harvest.

Soon their beans multiplied. "From one kilogram to 100 kilograms, from 100 kilograms to 100 tons," says Pierre with pride. Other refugees in the camp began to help. Soon they expanded to growing rice as well. After that, Pierre realized if they created an irrigation system they would no longer have to be dependent on rain or afraid of droughts. "We were making peace through self-reliance," says Pierre.

It was at this time that Sister Pilar from the Jesuit Missionary Refugee Service of New York came to Zambia. She was a kindred soul to the couple. Pierre had been having trouble getting some of his ideas about starting an irrigation system off the ground. Sister Pilar not only provided support for his ideas, but she also helped Pierre obtain funding and tools. "She was unquestioning in her support," says Pierre. "If we needed shovels she would arrange for them."

Sister Pilar also shares fond memories of the couple. "What I remember most about them was their respect for each other," says Sister Pilar. "In African cultures often the men are quite chauvinistic, but Martha and Pierre were a team. They made their decisions equally and together. And they had such hope, such enthusiasm for everything they did."

Sister Pilar remembers one concern the couple shared. "Some of the families in the camp had been there for three generations … and I remember Martha telling me she did not want her children to grow up as refugees. She wanted them to have a home."

In 1999 the couple learned of a U.S. Repatriation law that allowed mixed-tribe Rwandan families to apply for asylum in the United States. The couple applied and received asylum the next year. By this time they had three children -- Victor, Lillian, and Anna. For their first three months in the United States they received shelter at the Jesuit Missionary Refugee Service in New Jersey. Sister Pilar helped them find a home and jobs. Martha gave birth to their youngest child, Peace. "We named her Peace because she was born here," says Pierre. "This is the only country where we can live in peace. And we have hope that one day our country will have peace also."

After arriving in the United States Martha tried to locate her parents and siblings from Rwanda. She wrote letters to the Red Cross and to the United Nations for a long time. "But I think they are lost to me," she says quietly. "It was the price we paid for this family to remain together."

Today the couple lives in a suburb in Trenton, New Jersey. Their children go to Grant's elementary school nearby. Pierre is studying to become a nurse at a community college, and Martha is receiving a four-year college education. Their children do not recall the journey they took to bring their family to this peaceful suburb. "Victor knows he was once left on a ship," laughs Martha. "But he doesn't know why. One day when he is older I will tell him what his parents went through to bring him to this country. To give him this life."

Pierre nods and adds, "This is a love story. It is a story filled with the love and kindness of strangers. So many times in our journey we were helped by strangers. It made me realize that you don't have to be a special person to make peace or to make a life change -- there is no special person who is given that role. It belongs to each one of us. Each person can save a life, can make a difference."

Even though Pierre and Martha lost many things along the way -- stacks of love letters, family, friends, their house -- Martha still keeps one thing from her old life. In her kitchen is a small jar, and inside this jar is a handful of Rwandan climber beans.

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