by Benjamin Harris Shaw
NARRATION
Dave Pasternack is the chef and co-founder of Esca, an italian seafood restaurant in the theater district. He prides himself on preparing the best fish available for his customers. When he doesn't have time to catch it himself this means waking at 2 A.M. and heading down to the Fulton Fish Market. Fish wholesalers have gathered here on South Street, along the East River, since 1821.
TAPE:
DOCUMENTARY SOUND: Truck idling
PASTERNACK: "Guys unloading trucks, it's still a little early but you know it's Thursday morning. It's really not that busy yet but it'll get busy. (DOWN UNDER FOLLOWING)
NARRATION
The smell of fish and diesel fumes hang in the darkness. The road is closed to traffic, but forklifts and men fill South Street, ferrying boxes full of fish. Workers carry foot long gaff hooks and shout warnings as they weave between pallets of fish.
TAPE
POST: "Jerry watch you ass"
NARRATION
Haggling is the name of the game as buyers start doing the rounds searching for the best fish at the best price.
TAPE
DOCUMENTARY SOUND: Good morning young man. These are $3.50. I know but these are better, you know it I know it. Not even $3.45 - $3.50 a pound.
NARRATION
David Samuels is the owner of the Blue Ribbon Fish Company. He says his grandfather started the business in 1931... He points to a kid in a red hat....
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SAMUELS: He's the fourth generation. I'm the third generation, he's the fourth generation.
NARRATION
Samuels says there is little reason now for keeping the market by the water. Boats used to dock at the east river piers and unload fish directly to the market.
TAPE
SAMUELS: But now there's no more boats packing out and everything comes by truck or plane... and getting a tractor trailer to the lower part of Manhattan is a big pain in the... butt.
NARRATION
Samuels says that he is looking forward to the move if only for reason of comfort.
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SAMULES: This place works, but I'm getting a little tired of being outside in January and February. It'll be much more convenient.
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DOCUMENTARY SOUND: "Who's the next victim, step right up, don't be shy, have your money ready." (DOWN UNDER THE FOLLOWING)
NARRATION
John Espizito has been hocking fish for 14 years. He too is looking forward to the move.
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ESPEZITO: I'm glad, I'm glad, I'm glad... the buildings corroded here. Got a new facility, a new place. (FADE UNDER FOLLOWING)
NARRATION
City spokesperson, Janel Patterson said the new facility in Hunts Point will be 450,000-square-feet, 25 percent larger than the current market. The construction, directed by the City Economic Development Committee will cost 85 million dollars and will be complete by September. The entire space will be refrigerated and more accessible. And since vendors will no longer be using a public road they will be able to extend their hours.
All 55 of the market's vendors will be heading north. But only 600 of the 800 market employees will follow. Community activist Paul Lipson says Hunts Point residents are split over their new neighbor.
TAPE
LIPSON: There are people who want the jobs here, they want anything that will bring more employment. And there are people who are concerned about the overloading of the community with more trucks.
NARRATION
Lipson estimates that 700 to a thousand more trucks a night will enter the neighborhood. District Manager John Roberts says residents are not so much concerned with traffic as they are with the pollution the additional trucks will introduce. The neighborhood is already burdened by poor air quality and the second highest rate of asthma in the country.
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ROBERTS: They pick up their fish very early, so it's not going to interfere with the rush hour traffic. But it's just going to add more exhaust, more of these emissions into the air.
NARRATION
The city has not determined what will replace the market in lower Manhattan. The lower But Deputy Mayor Daniel Doctoroff is currently completing a study on the Fulton Street corridor. The Lower Manhattan Development Corporation is hoping to revitalize the the area by encouraging new retail and residential buildings. Last week, architect Santiago Calatrava announced plans to build a 1000 foot residential tower a few block south of the current market.
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DOCUMENTARY SOUND: (MARKET SOUND UP)
NARRATION
Americans are eating more and more fish, says Pasternack. And the new space provides the market much needed growing room. But he says the new market won't be the same.
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PASTERNACK: They want to build something modern. You know if they take it away they're going to take away a lot of personality. There is no place in america like this anymore, none. It's the last of a dying breed... (FADE OUT)
Despite the changes this early morning ritual will continue... for as long as there are fish in the sea. For Columbia Radio news this is Ben Shaw.